Discover the evolution of “Surfing and Surf Culture”
Riding waves on a wooden board dates back to the 12th century Polynesians… When they arrived in the Hawaiian Islands in the 5th century AD, they brought their traditions with them.
In Hawaii, surfing, wave sliding, or he’e nalu, was The Sport of Kings, and was for royalty only. There was a societal and spiritual meaning to the people, making it immensely important to their culture..
Royalty surfed with ‘Olo’ boards, that were long and narrow, reaching lengths of 18-20 feet. The ‘alaia’ boards were short and were for the commoners. Surfboards were made out of koa, ulu, and willi-willi (Hawaiian balsa wood.)
An industry was born that grew up in garages and backyards.
We honor these people, and their Shared Stories…
Their stories and that history are about the “Human Element,” and the “Human Spirit.“ They were free to do what they loved.
Featuring in-depth, personal, respectful, and unrestricted interviews, and support imagery. They shared a deep respect for each other, for nature and for the ocean.
Credits
Written and Directed by Richard Newman.
Produced by Richard Newman and Bill Eddy
Reviews
Addicted to Joy: Surfing’s Brilliant Cultural Ride
A passionate and unique doco about surfing’s history, boardmakers and men/women that kept the stoke-flame burning over time.
surfline.com
"Addicted to Joy"- Wins the prestigious 'Award of Excellence,' from The Impact DOCS Awards Competition. The award was given for the rich and inspiring documentary film that chronicles Surfing & Surf Culture's Colorful Heritage...
Impact Docs, March 2022
"If it's a deeper understanding of surfing and its profound roots and culture you're after, Addicted To Joy cuts right to the heart of what it's all about. For those that love and treasure the craftsmen and legends that have helped create this incredible lifestyle, you're not going to want to miss this tender film."
Jake Howard